Classification

Basil pesto is the common pesto. Its recipe typically calls for five key ingredients: $$ \begin{aligned} \textrm{basil pesto} = \textrm{basil} &+ \textrm{extra virgin olive oil} + \textrm{garlic} \\ &+ \textrm{parmesan cheese} + \textrm{pine nuts} \end{aligned} $$

Chimichurri includes a vinegar, usually red wine vinegar, which pesto does not, although pesto can suspend acid through citrus. Chimichurri often uses rough chopped or ground herbs, almost always oregano and parsley, but some modern applications will puree chimichurri as one does with pesto.¹

Pesto is also different from gremolata, which like chimi is also made with parsley, so you may refer to carrot-family herb sauces as either gremolatas or chimis, and mint-family herb sauces as pestos, and chefs will know what you mean, even if they don’t quite agree with the abstractions.

A table is provided as a summary of these three sauce’s distinctions.

“Green Sauces. The author made spring sauce up, but it’s very good on crostini.”

But there is a small catch, because some chefs may also say ‘arugula pesto,’ which might have no mint-family herb mixed in. This leafy sauce resembles pesto in process and appearence, and provides the effect of coating pastas in bright green colors, especially when suspended in stablized fat like reduced cream or mayonaisse. A chef can employ arugula for its liquorice and peppercorn aspects, or baby spinach which adds tang (like nori) when cooked, but she will most likely apply it because of its food coloring properties (vibrancy). Similarly, ‘spring pea pesto’ is made with a puree of spring peas and mint, and on crostini is a fantastic crudité.

In this way, pesto* is generalized from its elements, describing a sauce of process and appearence while flexible in its flavor balancing rules. This is pesto* as a category, not pesto as a set. For all intents and purposes, chimis and gremolatas are pestos*.

Ingredients

The key to most pestos is to use a motor driven device for pureeing the sauce. The two best tools available and in common use both in commericial and residential kitchens are the vitamix or immersion blender. Food processors and ninjas work just as well.

Hint: always add cheese last

Puree everything besides cheese first. You don’t want to gum up your blender, so you can fold the proto-pesto with grated parmesan in a mixing bowl after pureeing the produce. In restaurants, you can make a really fine proto-pesto (i.e., loose pesto) by pureeing the produce and oil for an extended period of time. It is easier on the motor and on the blades. You can be lazier picking your leaves on your basil or include more stems, because the cheese absent creates less friction. Save the cheese for last.

Greens

Most herbs from either the carrot- or mint-families will work great, and many green tops of root vegetables (turnip, radish) are, while not interchangeable, usable and often complimentary in pestos. Caution: while tarragon can be made into a pesto*, its deployment in cold-prep sauces is rare (marinades, green goddess dressing) and is typically utilized better in hot-prep sauces–especially béarnaise. Sage, rosemary, and lemon verbena require special practice. Thyme is time. Use edible garnishes. Keep away from the ornamental “perfumes”.

Recommend: basil, mint, parsley, oregano, marjoram, arugula
Avoid: lavendar, tarragon, lemon verbena, rosemary

Cheese

Try to stick with a hard cheese that has longer room temperature stability. Cheeses with hard interiors and developed rinds will impart the necessary fats and impactful aromas while also being more conservative in the funky bleu cheeses, chalky goat cheeses, or sour yet creamy compositions of farmer/cottage style cheeses–namely, ricotta, cotija or paneer. An old queso fresco that has been air dried in the fridge, however, is a mighty substitute to parmesan on a budget.

Recommend: parmesan, hard rind, feta, crumbly
Avoid: soft, bleu

Citrus?

Of course, pesto is also seasoned (sodiums, peppercorn) and lemon zest or lemon juice is an especially common addition. Adding citrus tunes flavor, because it combats salinity (parmesan saltiness is not equal between products) and piquancy (garlic cloves grown in drought can be remarkably ‘hot’). Because lemons are a hybrid of pomelo and citron, grapefruit juice is an equally applicable substitute.

Recommend: lemon zest, grapefruit juice, kombucha vinegars
Avoid: orange, distilled vinegars

Nuts

Pine nuts are the nut of choice in recipes from canonical sources. People don’t have pine nuts in their house. They do have other nuts leftover from baked good preperations. In restaurants, pine nuts are toasted in hot ovens. They are applied whole to pizzas and salads, so because they can live in a recipe and two auxillary dishes, they define themselves as roleplayers in menus and inventories. However, pine nuts are expensive. Because they are normally toasted, errant chefs may leave them in ovens for moments too long, destroying a product whose cost is equivalent to whole numbers of the average hourly wages. This is not good for anyone. I’ve never done this before, I swear.

Instead, some nontropical tree nuts are immediate substitutes if you are concerned only with the context of pesto: walnut, almond, and pistachio. This does not mean cashews are off limits, nor peanuts. Consider the role they play with basil and different oils in Thai cuisine. But maybe we don’t often think of peanut butter and parmesan together, so we avoid peanuts in pesto. That doesn’t mean you are violating international treaties by substituting deluxed mixed nuts from the grocery store in place of pine nuts. Pine nuts are the most replaceable element of classical pesto.

Recommend: pine nut, walnut, almond, pistachio
Avoid: peanut, cashew, macadamia, brazil, pecan

Oils

It is by no coincidence that extra virgin olive oil is the go to substrate (notice also olives and the alternative nuts previously mentioned grow adjacent to each other). Its Mediterranean origin is the required consideration for almost all member dishes in its cuisine. Some oils are better than others when olive oil is out: avocado, walnut, grapeseed. Avoid soy and canola oils which are better suited for frying, and harm basil less in lite applications like salad (Italian) dressing. Coconut oil can be used, but is not ideal because of its high melting point. However, you can create a spreadable pesto by using coconut oil–if the proto-pesto wets are tempered into coconut oil carefully. Coarser nuts in the spread make for a provocative but health-conscious party favor.

Recommend: extra virgin, walnut, avocado
Avoid: canola, soy, peanut

Alliums

Lastly, we generalized garlic to alliums above for good reason. You can make garlic scape pesto, which uses the green tops grown above earth from the garlic bulb. But, you can also use spring onions and/or shallot bulbs in place of garlic, which is especially more pleasant with lakefish and seafood. Although, garlic is preferable to onion in the regime of shellfish and, notably, the mollusk. You can also use radish bulbs, as well as radish or mustard greens in pesto, which simulates “bite”. In place of garlic, this is a quite useful substitution when pestos are applied in dressings for leafy salads or pasta salads.

Recommend: fresh garlic, young onions, shallot, some pickled
Avoid: large onions, leek, pearl onion, cooked garlic

Recipe

I’ve included a basic production recipe for Basil Pesto that creates a structurally “loose” pesto. My application could be added to heavy mayo for basil aioli, brushed on bread for grilling, and thickened with reduced (50%) cream for penne pasta dishes (bechamel cheese sauces work there, too). Cheese plays a more vital role when pesto is a topping where the goal is to gratinize, or in the presence of crackers.

What is sauce?

When you play this game of generalizing sauces into irreducible primitives, you eventually question with good reason why the five mother sauces are the way that they are.

If postulated today, there would no doubt be endless criticism of its organization, lack of other fundamentally different sauces (gastriques?), exclusion of other world foods, and few would be convinced of any universality. But Escoffier’s postulate has historical importance defining the role of these hot-held sauces in a greater culinary scope. Less valuable now as theory, it is more so enforced as a performance lesson: a chef must learn how to make the mother sauces to be the best in her trade.

If you were to reduce every cold sauce into fundamentals (vinaigrette, aioli, coulis, etc), to what extent can you? There is at least some argmunent: the preperation does require special work. While the heated sauces have an additional thermal parameter (‘careful not to scald, to break..’), the cold sauces spend energy kinetically: emulsify, puree, grind (‘careful not to overwhip, to break..’). In this sense, attention isn’t voluntary, so it separates itself from chopping, fermenting, or stirring to mix, giving an argument of practicality some teeth in the need for order. No, Ranch is not a mother cold sauce, but mayo does require special work and is an elemental part of Ranch.

In my mind, I do consider some categories of cold sauces as fundamental to the education of the garde (those mentioned, probably closer to seven in total). So with liberty, let’s for sake of argument hold salsas and pestos in different regard. I cannot speak to the genre it belongs, but: if you have never tried blending tomatillo and basil together, you are missing out on one of life’s best kept secrets.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 4 Quarts

Ingredients

• ¼ lb Butter
• 1 Cup AP Flour
• ½ Gallon Heavy Whipping Cream
• 8 fl oz Light Beer
• 2 Quart Shredded Cheddar/jack Cheese
• 2 Tbsp House Seasoning

Directions

1. Over medium high heat, create a blonde roux with the butter and flour in a 6 quart sauce pot

2. Add the first half of cream and thicken

3. Add the beer and the cheese, whisking until the cheese is mostly melted

4. Whisk in the last quart of heavy cream

5. Season, then place the pot in a baine-marie

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 3 Quarts

Ingredients

• 1 Quart Dijon Mustard
• 3 Cup Yellow Mustard
• 3 Cup Honey
• 8 fl oz Stout or Porter Beer

Directions

1. In a large mixing bowl, combine all ingredients and whisk

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 6 Quarts

Ingredients

• 1 bn Basil leaves (approx. 1 quart unpacked or cut)
• 1/2 Cup Garlic Clove
• 1 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 1 ea Lemon (juice + zest)
• 1 Handful Baby Spinach
• 1 Cup Water
• 1 Gallon Mayonnaise

Directions

1. In the blender, puree all ingredients into a pesto minus mayonnaise until smooth

2. Whisk the pesto with the mayonnaise in a large mixing bowl until thoroughly combined

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 6 Quarts

Ingredients

• 1 Gallon Mayonnaise
• 2 Cup Relish
• 2 fl oz Worcestershire Sauce
• 4 fl oz Pickle Juice
• 2 oz Red Onion, small dice
• 2 fl oz Sriracha
• 4 fl oz Lemon Juice
• 4 oz Honey
• 1 Tbsp Kosher Salt
• 1 Tbsp Black Pepper

Directions

1. Mix all ingredients in a large mixing bowl with a whisk

Chefs: Wyatt Brege, Hank Gerrero

Yield: 4 Quarts

Ingredients

• 54 fl oz Coconut Milk
• ½ Cup Curry Paste
• 1 Cup Peanut Butter, smooth
• 2 tsp Kosher Salt
• 1 tsp Black Pepper

Directions

1. In a 6 quart sauce pot on medium heat, bring all ingredients to a whisp and whisk

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 1 Quart

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 Cup Soy Sauce
• 1/2 Cup Water
• 3/4 Cup Brown Sugar
• 1/4 Cup Sriracha
• 1/3 Cup Oyster Sauce
• 18 ea Garlic Cloves
• 1/3 Cup Fresh Ginger
• 1/4 Cup Sesame Oil
• 4 ea Plums, pits removed

Directions

Peel and grate the ginger.

In a 4 Quart container, add all ingredients and blend with the immersion blender.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 1 Quart

Ingredients

• 2 Bunch Basil
• 8-10 clove Peeled Garlic
• 3 Cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
• 1/4 Cup Seasonal Tree Nuts (shelled whole)
• 1/4 Cup Grated Parmesan
• tt Salt and Black Pepper

Directions

In a medium sized mixing bowl, combine the ingredients (sans parmesan) with the immersion blender. Fold in the parmesan. Store in 1 Quart deli container.

Notes

It is important to use actual extra virgin olive oil and not pomace or salad oil. The bite of the olive is a key flavor component of pesto.

Chefs: Ginger Brege, Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1 can Ketchup
• 2 Cup Yellow Mustard
• 3 Cup Brown Sugar
• 1/2 Cup Worcestershire Sauce

Directions

Mix in a mixing bowl with a whisk until blended and smooth.

Chefs: Ryan Fleener, Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 3 qt Mayonaisse
• 12 fl oz Guiness (bottle)
• 3 Tbsp Coarse Grind Black Pepper

Directions

Add ingredients to a large mixing bowl and whisk.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1/2 #10 can Fancy Ketchup
• 1 Cup Brown Sugar
• 1 Cup Molasses
• 1/4 Cup Apple Cider Vinegar
• 2 fl oz Worcesterchire Sauce
• 2 Tbsp Dijon Mustard
• 2 fl oz Maker's Mark Bourbon

Directions

On low heat, combine all ingredients in a 6 quart sauce pot and stir. Let cool and store in a 4 quart container.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1/2 Gallon Mayonaise
• 3 Tbsp Cajun Seasoning
• 1/4 Cup Lemon Juice
• 1/3 Cup Roasted Red Pepper Sauce

Directions

In a large mixing bowl, whisk ingredients together.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 2 Quart

Ingredients

• 12 each Large Red Bell Pepper
• 2/3 Cup House Cajun Seasoning
• 1/4 Cup Vegetable Stock

Directions

Roast the red bell peppers on the six burners until the skins are blackened, but not until they turn to white ash.

Place a colander in the bottom of the sink and clean the roasted peppers under cold running water, removing the blackened skins, the interior seeds, and the stem portion.

Place the roasted red pepper flesh in the blender with the stock and Cajun seasoning, then puree for 60 seconds.

Store in 1 Quart deli containers and/or large squeeze bottles.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 2 Quart

Ingredients

• 7 Cup Mayonaisse
• 1/2 Cup Garlic Puree
• tt Salt and Restaurant Ground Black Pepper

Directions

In the Ninja blender attachment, add all ingredients and use the "Smoothie" setting to full cycle.

Chefs: Matt Andrews, Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1/2 Gallon Heavy Wipping Cream
• 1/2 Cup All-Purpose Flour
• 1/2 Cup Unsalted Butter
• 2 Cup Grated Parmessan
• 1/3 Cup Pureed Garlic Confit
• 1/2 Tbsp Fine Black Pepper
• 1 Tbsp Kosher Salt

Directions

Melt Butter in a 4 Quart pot over medium-high heat. Whisk in flour to create a blonde roux. Add 1/3 of cream to the roux and thicken. Add 1/3 of cream and bring up to heat. Add the Parmesan and garlic puree. Add remaining 1/3 of cream and bring up to temperature. Season with salt and pepper and place in a Baine-Marie insert.

Notes

To make the pureed garlic confit, bring a quart of peeled garlic cloves to a simmer in olive or salad oil for 30-45 minutes. You want the garlic to remain quite blonde but soft. Strain the garlic from the oil. Let oil cool and place in squeeze bottle for plating red meats. Blend the garlic into a puree with a blender and ladle, food processor, or an immersion blender. You may need to use some of the oil to assist in pureeing. This is easiest when the garlic is still hot. Do not use a Magic Bullet with hot garlic confit as the pressure can be quite harmful.

Chefs: Matt Andrews, Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1 Cup Egg Yolks
• 1 Tbsp Lemon Juice
• 1 Tbsp White Wine
• 1 1/2 Pound Butter (melted)
• tt Old Bay Seasoning (Standard)

Directions

Whisk egg yolk, white wine, and lemon juice over a double boiler until thickened to proper consistency. Be sure to not over heat the egg mixture, as it can scramble and produce flan.

Slowly add in butter, assure you don't add it too quickly or it will break.

If too thick add a small amount of hot water.

Once the hollandaise has formed, season with Old Bay.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 3 Quarts

Ingredients

• 32 fl oz Dijon Mustard
• 3/4 jug Honey
• 2 Cup Yellow Mustard

Directions

Mix in a bowl with a whisk.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1/2 Cup All-Purpose Flour
• 1/2 Cup Butter
• 1/2 Gallon Heavy Whipping Cream
• 2 Cup Cheddar Jack Cheese (Shredded)
• 1 1/2 Cup Peppejack Cheese (Shredded)
• 1 Tbsp Fine Black Pepper
• 1 Tbsp Kosher Salt

Directions

Melt Butter in a 4 Quart pot over medium-high heat. Whisk in flour to create a blonde roux. Add 1/3 of cream to the roux and thicken. Add 1/3 of cream and bring up to heat. Add the cheeses. Add remaining 1/3 of cream and bring up to temperature. Season with salt and pepper and place in a Baine-Marie insert.

Chefs: Wyatt Brege, Patty Pereira

Ingredients

• 4 Quart Tomato Scraps
• 1 ea Green Bell Pepper
• 1 ea Yellow Bell Pepper
• 1 ea Red Onion
• 1 ea Poblano Pepper
• 12 ea Garlic Cloves
• 1/4 Cup Cumin
• 1/4 Cup Chili Powder
• tt Salt and Fine Black Pepper

Directions

Julienne the peppers and onions. Dice the tomato scraps. In a large saute pan, saute onions until tender. Add the peppers and saute until soft. Add tomatoes, garlic and seasoning. Cook to reduce.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Yield: 5 Quarts

Ingredients

• 1 Gallon Mayonnaise
• 17 fl oz Sriracha
• 1/2 Cup Lemon Juice

Directions

In a large mixing bowl add all ingredients and whisk until blended smooth.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 3 Quart Mayonaise
• 14 fl oz Sriracha
• 1/3 Cup Lemon Juice

Directions

In a large mixing bowl add all ingredients and whisk until blended smooth.

Chefs: Wyatt Brege, Ryan Fleener

Ingredients

• 2 Bottles Mae Ploy Sweet Chilli Sauce
• 2 Tbs Honey
• 2 Cup Orange Juice

Directions

Whisk ingredients in a large saute pan. Place pan on low heat and reduce sauce by a third.

Chef: Wyatt Brege

Ingredients

• 1 1/2 Quart Mayonaisse
• 2 Cup Ketchup
• 1 Cup Yellow Mustard
• 1 Cup House Pickle Juice

Directions

In a medium mixing bowl combine all ingredients until smooth.

Chef: Ryan Fleener

Yield: 4 quarts

Ingredients

• 1 can Restaurant Style Ketchup
• 2 Cup Worcestershire Sauce
• 1 Cup Brown Sugar
• 1/2 Cup Dijon
• 1/2 Cup Yellow Mustard Sauce
• 1 Cup Cider Vinnegar
• 1/2 Cup Chopped Garlic
• 2 Cup Well Whiskey
• 1 1/2 ounce Sriracha
• tt Salt and Pepper

Directions

In a large Rondeau, add all ingredients and whisk thoroughly. Place over a simmer for 1 hour, or until cooked down to light paste consistency.